|
|
|
|
April 18, 2003 update:
Maximillian no longer cuts keys. La Jolla Independent is another source./----------------------
James,I made Xerox copies of my keys and enlarged them 100%. I then sent the Xerox copies to Santa Monica Lock & Safe and voila (oops that's French) the duplicate keys worked perfectly. I believe the charged me $25.00 per key.
Santa Monica Lock & Safe Co
2208 Pico Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90405
Phone: (310) 450-5101
Michael Balaban
/----------------------
James,Last year sometime, or just after the Euro cam into being I ordered from Walloth & Nesch an ignition switch, a trunk lock and two door locks for my 76 3.0Si for $104.00. w/glove box lock, = $133.00. You get two s/steel Pebra keys. I ordered two key blanks too $5.67 ea. Exchange rate at the time was 1 Euro = .87 US
Today's rate is 1 Euro = 1.08 US
Delivery time was about two weeks and shipping was reasonable. I found them to be very courteous and more than willing to help out.Regards,
Claude Mondoux
SSR# 227
At 5:09 AM -0800 3/27/02, David B & Ramona L Peeler wrote:
When I got my E3 it came only with a "valet" key. I had a copy made for my E3 at the dealer her in Sacramento for $13. Took a couple of weeks for the copy to come in. I had to provide the code which is stamped on the door cylinder.Here's some additional Pebra Key information and advice from the CSR home office... Some of you have probably seen this before.
(1) Keys are listed in Sections 32/16 and 32/17 of the Mobil Tradition and "Orange" parts catalogs along with all the ignition switch bits and pieces and exploded diagrams.
(2) The key that opens everything is the "Generalschlussel" - no, not one of Field Marshall Erwin Rommel's staff. #32 32 1 104 229.
(3) The key that operates the ignition and doors is the "Normalschussel". Otherwise known as a "valet key" #32 32 1 104 228. (I seem to have lost a couple of umlauts here - if found please return; no questions asked.)
Personal Observation: Why does one really need a valet key other than for the sake of complete originality? Would you allow a valet to drive your Coupe or Bav?
The last car I turned over to a valet was an 1986 AMC Eagle SW.
Tell them that your car is three decades old, and a little tricky to start and that you will mutilate them if so much a door ding shows up. They usually will then direct you to a nice safe place right near the restaurant entrance where you won't get bashed by somebody flinging open the door to jump out of an SUV in a long gown.
It is never a good idea to keep anything important in or to lock the glove box, anyway. One quick twist of a pry bar or screw driver and you've lost your 357 (gun content) or bra and/or jockey shorts (undergarment content) and had your dash really messed up. All of these are important . You explain to the cops why your weapon was found at the scene of a crime; or - you explain to your spouse why you didn't come home with the same underwear that you left with that AM; or - you sob and weep copiously when you find out about availability, what it costs for parts and what it takes in labor to replace a dash.
I leave the order of importance of these items to you. But I digress ...(4) Obvious caveat for those that missed the Friday lectures on Logic in Philo 101:
Using the VIN to order keys requires that you be certain that your existing Generalschlussel key fits all locks and that nobody has changed any locks since the vehicle was screwed together. If it does work everything, then to be certain, consider obtaining the key code from the trunk lock - it's the easiest to get at and usually has two letters followed by 3 or 4 numbers.
If the locks are not all the same, then you could start removing things like door panels as needed. It's not really difficult in theory but it can present some minor problems such as very old and dry wood cracking, stripped screws and holes, bent door panels and trim, plastic snap clips pulling out of the cardboard or breaking off, rubber door gaskets and other things refusing to line up again, etc.
Actually the best course is to send your key(s) to one of the recommended duplication folks. Hopefully it's not your only one, otherwise deliver it there in person and stand by while they do the work (get at least two extra).
Dismantling is not really a good idea unless you need to lube your window mechanisms and motors, clear the drains at the bottom of the door, replace wood trim or glass or retrieve the credit card your child managed to drop into the door.(5) QUERY: OK Professor - you've babbled on enough. Where the Hell do I order these keys?
REPLY:
CSi - CSiLA@compuserve.com http://www.partsbytel.com/bmw
Maximillian at 800-950-2002 ... ask for Paul W and tell him Art W sent ya.
D. E. Lock & Key, Alameda, CA 94501, (510) 522-4766
I believe they are still in business. I think it was about $20 for two keys.
Jim at Mesa Performance
BMW Dealers - maybe
See also the several other sources suggested on the CSR and SSR eMail lists.
Some times Munchen (damn ... lost another umlaut) gets a bit fussy and wants to be certain you own the car for which you want keys - how unreasonable of them! You might have to get a Xerox of the registration or title to Paul or a dealer or whomever you choose, for faxing. Clearly should be no problem unless your ex-spouse has the key and registration and you want to steal the car back.
(6) Finally ... Another address for duplicating from a key is given in CS Registry Newsletter Volume XIV (Vol. 14 if you skipped Latin 101 when they covered the Roman numbering system), No. 2, p. 12. Taking your ignition lock apart? See Newsletter Vol. XIV (still #14), No. 3/4, p. 22 for detailed description.
Art