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Upgrading to Pertronix Ignitor
Be aware! The Pertronix does have an Achilles' heel. I've never seen one go bad electronically. But one day I tried to remove the black ring that contains the trigger magnets, and the top opened up and the tiny, but EXTREMELY powerful magnets went everywhere.Covered under warranty, still going....
Easiest and best thing you can do to an E-3, E-9 or E-12, 530i.
Bill Bowes
There was someone out there with a Pertonix issue. So one more time:
Install as per instructions, removing the points (YES!!!!) condenser,
(Ho,hum). Install Pertonix base, and Puleeazze don't drop the screw into the distributor. Talk about ruining your day!
Run the wires thru the distributor body, but don't spend too much time with the grommet. It never fits. Use bubble gum.
Black wire goes to the - (minus) side of the distributor.
Red wire goes to the ballast resistor. This is the big white rectangular doodad that is on one of the fenders. Without the ballast resistor, BMW's will fry their points in no time. Hooked directly to the distributor, you'll fry the Pertonix in no time. Can't find a ballast resistor? Remove the one hooked to that stupid condenser fan. Let's face it the A/C sucks anyway.
Start car, drive, enjoy. I've put over 100,000 miles on mine, and points and tune-ups are a thing of the past. In fact, the last tune-up I did was when I rebuilt the engine, shortly after Oktoberfest 98 in Orlando. Then over the summer it started to run like crap. I did a basic tune-up to no avail, and had to miss Euro-99. I blamed the Pertonix, but everyone said I was crazy.
Turned out to be wires. I have a thing about replacing plug wires....
Bill Bowes
-----Original Message-----
From: bbowes@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 1998 8:38 PM
To: cpeavey@world.northgrum.com
Subject: Re: Pertrnix Igniter, junk points replacementCharlie Peavy wrote:I saw CNPR's ad for the Pertronix on their web site (www.bimmerdoc.com), and called >my reliable buddies at Mesa Performance Parts. I was told that the Pertronix did not even fit in the old big six distributors,
Jeezus, Charlie. What did you have to go and say that for? I've been using the pertronix in my Bavaria for over two years now, and now you have to go and tell it that it doesn't fit? I'll probably go out tomorrow and the car won't start.
Like the bumble bee. According to modern engineering theory, the bumble bee cannot fly. His wings are simply too small for his body. But no one ever told the little suckers, so they just keep on flying. soon as some one tells 'em though, we're going to be up to our elbows in grounded bumble bees.
only the 4 cylinders, and why did people keep trying to sell them?You know what they say, "When you're up to your ass in Cranes.........."
They sold me a Crane XR (for $40-50 more, unfortunately, but with assurance it would work).Crane's a good unit. But then, so is every Pertronix I've ever used, and I don't have that huge red box under the hood.
I haven't installed it yet - maybe this weekend!Took me 15 minutes on the Pertronix.
The confusion is this. The older big 6 used a small distributor. When the moved up to FI, they kept the points, but they made the distributor larger. Much larger. They also used this larger unit on 530i's. The Pertronix only fits the older distributors, which I've been told are much more reliable than the newer, and bigger ones.
But me thinks that Mesa has a bunch of the Cranes on their shelves. Less one, of course.
Bill Bowes
-----Original Message-----
From: bbowes@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 7:15 PM
To: mkressel@geology.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pertronix Igniter, junk points replacementWhen you have time, could you share with us the trick to correctly install the "Pertronix"?Hello class. Class. CLASS!! OK. Listen up. This is weally weally weally tough. I need your complete attention.
1. Remove Distributor Cap; Am I going too Fast for anybody?2. Remove rotor; (Don't lose it. Better yet, get a new one. )
3. Remove points; throw in garbage. Won't need them anymore. they're pitted anyway.
4. Remove Condenser. Ditto on the garbage routine.
5. Insert mount in Distributor, and screw down. Do NOT lose the screws inside of distributor, or this job just got a bit tougher.
Now we're coming to the tough part.
6. Take Black round piece out of box and press it on to distributor shaft. This is the part most people get wrong! If it does not fit, you have the newer distributor, and the wrong kit. Do not FORCE it. Remember the old square hole and round plug routine? Same deal. Also. Please make sure it goes ALL the way down. Half way in is NEVER very good.7. Take the Pertonix unit and you'll see two wires, red and black. Run them through the hole in the side of the distributor. They provide a rubber grommet to fill the hole, but I've never been able to make it fit.
If you want to fight with it, knock yourself out.
8. The mount that was installed in 5, has two poles. Insert the Pertonix on one and screw the other side down. The kit contains a short clear piece of plastic. This is your gapper. Place it between the Distributor shaft and the black body of the Pertonix. Tighten down the Pertonix with the screw.9. Check your work class. If everything looks ok, reinstall the rotor,and the cap.
We're almost there, now, so hopefully no one's been sleeping in class.
10 Take the BLACK wire and attach it to the - (negative side of the distributor).11. Take the RED wire and attach it to the TERMINATING RESISTOR. This is the white rectangular thing that is attached to the inner fender. If you attach it to the + side of the distributor, it will run, but it will burn up. BTW points do the same thing. If you don't have a terminating resistor, get one.
12. start car. Notice that it starts right up, and runs well. It will stay this way for the next 60 or 70,000 miles or so.
Thank you.